The Rise of Sesame: From Ancient Crop to Modern Delicacy in China

In 2011, China’s sesame production was 457,600 mt. The overall sesame demand showed a fluctuating growth trend. In 2022, China’s sesame demand reached 1,461,100 mt, significantly higher than domestic production. China’s sesame planting area in 2021 reached 285.4 thousand hectares, a slight decrease from 292.07 thousand hectares in 2020

Overview

Sesame is an annual herb found mainly in tropical and some temperate regions of the world. Sesame seeds are an ancient species that has been cultivated for more than 5000 years. According to legend, it was introduced to China from the Western Regions during the Western Han Dynasty. Sesame seeds are one of the main sources of edible oils in China, with an oil content of up to 45% – 63%. Sesame seeds are rich in protein and unsaturated fatty acids, which have a high nutritional value. At present, domestic sesame is mainly used for the production of sesame oil, and its processing technology mainly includes water substitution, pressing and the enzymatic process, of which water substitution method is China’s traditional sesame processing sesame oil method. The water enzymatic method is a new extraction process with good prospects.

Sesame paste is the most important condiment in Chinese hot pot meals. It is the base of the condiment mix in which you dip the boiled food, before eating it.

Wangzhihe sesame paste, one of the oldest brands of this product

Innovating with sesame

Sesame may be a very traditional product, its flavour keeps attracting even the young and hip consumers. Late 2023, coffee chain M Stand Coffee launched sesame latte. Chinese have a sweet tooth and most like their coffee sweet. So, why not use sesame as a sweetener and create a novel flavour at the same time?

The sesame value chain

In the sesame value chain situation, upstream mainly consists of sesame seeds, pesticide fertilizers, nutritional supplements, land, farmers and agricultural machinery, etc. The middle stream is mainly about the growing of sesame. The current overall domestic sesame planting is rather scattered. Downstream includes various sesame products: sesame oil, sesame paste, complex protein powder, etc. China’s sesame processing enterprises are mainly small individual workshops. There are only five brands with an economy of scale (Jinlongyu (COFCO), Totole, Dingzhi Food, Nanfang Black Sesame and Ruifu Oils. With the continuous expansion of downstream sesame applications, all kinds of snack foods including sesame are gradually increasing, which is expected to drive the continuous growth of sesame demand. In the future, sesame research and processing will gradually extend to fine chemicals, cosmetics and medicine.

Sesame processing

As a high value cash crop, sesame seeds have a wide range of application. Its fields of application can be divided into: oil, food, industrial, medicinal, and feed. In terms of the current situation of supply and demand of sesame seeds in China, the output has been stable at about 350,000 – 500,000 mt for many years. In 2022, China’s sesame production was 435,300 mt, up from 457,600 mt in 2021. The overall sesame demand shows a fluctuating growth trend. In 2022, China’s sesame demand reached 1.4611 ml mt, significantly higher than domestic output. The remaining demand needs to be fulfilled through imports.

Jinlongyu sesame oil

Impex

China’s sesame imports increased from 389,300 mt in 2011 to 1,173,500 mt in 2021. Imports in 2022 were repeatedly affected by the pandemic, combined with high prices. China’s sesame imports fell slightly to 1,070,900 tons in 2022. China’s sesame exports in 2021-2022 were 46,900 mt and 45,100 mt, respectively.

Peter Peverelli is active in and with China since 1975 and regularly travels to the remotest corners of that vast nation. He is a co-author of a major book introducing the cultural drivers behind China’s economic success

What on earth are . . . saqima?

Saqima is a kind of pastry adored by Manchu people of northeast China. They were originally made for sacrificial offerings. After the imperial court of the Qing Dynasty (the emperors of that dynasty were from the Manchu nationality) moved its capital to Beijing, a large number of Manchus settled in this city. This facilitated the spread of Saqima among Han Chinese. it soon became recognised as a Beijing treat and currently as a general Chinese pastry. It is available in China supermarkets in every part of the world with a considerable Chinese community.

Saqima

Basic recipe

The basic recipe is as follows: first mix the flour and egg into noodles, fry them and then blend them with sugar syrup. The next step is to put the sweetened noodles in moulds to form a big block, which is then cut into small square or oblong pieces. Proper saqima taste sweet but not greasy, and should be crisp.

Industrial production

As all traditional Chinese foods, saqima need to go through the process of adaptation to industrial production, to survive in the modern consumption environment. Points for attention for food formulators are: the crispy mouth feel and the flavour and fragrance that should be rich but not greasy. This video shows an industrial production line for saqima.

Help from Nestlé

Hsu Fu Chi (already featuring in a number of other posts in this blog; use the search function to surf to those posts) is one of the more important industrial producers of saqima. Nestlé has a 60% stake in this company and has assisted in developing a recipe and process to increase crispiness in Saqima to draw in younger consumers. The new recipe comprises fried dough, syrup and flavorings – the latter of which could be anything from cheese, seaweed, mango or chocolate. Importantly, it said the fried dough should represent 55-72 wt% (percentage of total product weight); syrup 22-35wt% and flavoring 1.5-5.5wt%. The fried dough is made using high gluten flour and baking powder as a leavening agent and the syrup using brown sugar, sweeteners or a mix. The final syrup has to be made using certain ratios – sugar (10-25wt%); 65-80wt% glucose syrup; 0.21wt% salt and 5 – 12% water.

This is a picture of one of the packaging and the ingredients list as provided by the manufacturer.

Glucose syrup, wheat flour, palm oil, eggs, crystal sugar, milk powder, sesame seed, salt, food additives (sodium bi-carbonate, disodium dihydrogen pyrophosphate, TBHQ).

XFJsaqima

Other innovative producers sometimes add currents or preserved fruit pieces before pressing the blocks to create more variety in flavours and textures. The pictures shows a saqima made from black rice and also containing peanuts.

BlackSaqima

In another post of this blog tea as flavouring I am introducing a tea flavoured saqima.

Saqima with a Western touch: cheese saqima

Hsu Fu Chi has launched another innovative variety of saqima in 2021: cheese saqima, flavoured with Danish cheese.

CheeseSaqima

Specially formulated ingredients

One sign of the maturation of the industrial production of saqima is that a number of food ingredients producers have started developing products specially formulated for this application. One Chinese enzyme producer is marketing a compound enzyme to improve flour for the production of saqima, improving the crispiness of that first bite that is so defining for a good old fashioned (though industrially produced) saqima.

A number of flour mills are supplying wheat flour with a high gluten content for saqima producers.

SaqimaFlour

Peter Peverelli is active in and with China since 1975 and regularly travels to the remotest corners of that vast nation.