Chinese cuisine is one of the longest surviving culinary traditions in the world. The Chinese  preference for pyrotechnics has made cooked food a dietary habit passed down from generation to generation. Cooked food not only has a higher safety, but also tends to stimulate a more pleasant sensory experience due to the colour and aroma produced by heating.

Latest raw products

However, in recent years, more and more domestic brands have begun to turn around and successively launched foods with the concept of ‘raw’ (sheng 生). Luckin Coffee first launched ‘raw coconut latte’ and ‘raw cheese latte’ and quickly became an explosive series.

Luckin Coffee ads promoting products containing ‘raw coconut’. Note that the word ‘raw’ does not appear in the English text

Raw cheese here refers to the use of very young cream cheese. For most Chinese consumers, ‘cheese’ was connotated with the processed cheese that was before that moment the typical cheese for sale in Chinese supermarkets.

Entering 2023, the concept of ‘raw’ food really took off. Starbucks launched a ‘Green Coffee Series’ featuring concentrated fruit juice mixed with green bean extract.

Pepsi launched the diet soda ‘Raw Coke’. Pepsi uses the term shengshuang ciji, literally ‘raw fresh stimulating’, indicating that consumers start linking the concept of raw to that of fresh and that it has an uplifting effect.

Manner Coffee launched draft beer latte (the Chinese word for draft beer, shengpi, includes the word ‘raw’. One influencer describes his first sip of this brew as follows: ‘The first bite is a little like the barley aroma in beer, but it is not very beery, it feels more milky, and it is a good latte, I like the milky taste in this one’.

Uni-President has launched new ‘high mountain raw squeezed green tea’.

The word raw squeezed (shengzha) is highlighted in red on the bottle to indicate that it is an important feature of this product.

Development

The first ‘raw’ foods were made with raw coconut. In 2021, the concept of ‘raw coconut’ became popular with the popular series of Luckin Raw Coconut Latte. Using cold-pressed raw coconut milk as the base and using the raw extraction process, the product retains the authentic taste of coconut meat and the rich coconut aroma.

‘Raw coconut’ generally refers to coconut milk, which is made by grinding mature coconut meat mixed with coconut water or water. Using ‘raw’ to describe fruit and vegetable categories, the public will always mentally connect this with fresh and natural, coupled with the sweeter and smoother taste characteristics of coconut milk, ‘raw coconut’ is more likely to be recognized and loved in the public’s sensory cognition.

Today, the concept of raw coconut is still a popular element of beverage innovation. According to incomplete statistics, in June and July 2023 alone, there were more than ten new products featuring raw coconut as a major ingredient.

Different from the classic pairing of raw coconut latte, many coffee brands have begun to combine ‘raw coconut’ with cold brew and Americano. For example, Tim’s launched Watermelon Raw Coconut Cold Brew, which uses fresh sweet watermelon juice with rich raw coconut milk. Heytea combines seasonal honey dew melon with raw coconut milk. Weiquan combines Indonesian coconut milk with small grain oats.

In recent years, Luckin has also carried out many innovations based on the raw coconut classic series, and successively launched new products such as Ice Absorbing Raw Coconut Latte and Touching Fish Raw Coconut Latte this year. The Iced Coconut Latte enhances the coconut aroma experience in a 2.0 plant-based formula infused with Luckin’s original cooling factor, while the Touching Fish Raw Coconut Latte adds konjac to it.

Touching Fish Raw Coconut Latte; the add indicates that the product contains no fat

In addition, the concept of ‘raw pressing’ has also begun to extend from the application of fruit and vegetable raw materials to tea processing. On June 4, Uni-President launched the Uni-President Chaguowang Gaoshan Raw Green Tea, advertised as: ‘one mouthful of raw pressing, double freshness’. The product combines fresh tea with the same amount of water, crushes at cell level to obtain raw fresh tea concentrate, and adopts nitrogen sealing, 70-90 °C high-temperature tea brewing and UHT technologies to restore the original taste of freshly brewed tea.

In October last year, Luckin launched a blockbuster new Raw Cheese Latte. The product combines classic New Zealand raw cheese (referring to immature cheese) with mellow milk and espresso, retaining the cheesy and slightly salty flavour, and presenting a cheesecake-like experience with a silky texture and rich milk aroma. After the success of the ‘raw cheese’ series, Luckin has successively launched Orange Flavoured Raw Cheese Latte and Tiramisu Love Cheese this year.

Luckin’s Raw Cheese Latte; Jojo is a comic strip figure. The ad includes a pun with that name Jo dengle = jiu deng le 久等了 (sorry to let you wait so long)

Today’s ‘raw cheese’ is generally made of cheese raw materials such as cream cheese and cheddar cheese with different degrees of fermentation with milk and coconut milk. Compared to the single salty cheese flavour, raw cheese provides a stronger cheese aroma, smoother blending with the drink, and a more recognizable flavour.

In addition to the application in coffee, the concept of ‘liquid cheese’ like raw cheese has gradually been applied to milk tea and fruit tea. In December last year, the first raw cheese series was launched on Chabaidao. For the first time, raw cheese was added to milk tea, and two classic cheese flavours, imported raw cheese from New Zealand and Denmark were blended to obtain a more layered cheese aroma.

In March this 2023, Naixue launched a new series of multi-fruit pulp Domineering Cheese, focusing on ‘fresh fruit’ and ‘milk base’, combining fresh pulp with raw buttermilk and raw buttermilk and raw buttermilk jelly, presenting a more chewy and more complex flavoured milk tea experience.

Naixue’s cherry blossom cheese tea

Novel, fun, raw and wild experience

Through cooking, processed food often loses the tart taste of the raw material itself, or generates new substances during the reaction process, obtaining new flavours and nutrition.

As the consumption environment and emotional experiences of food become more personalized, people begin to pursue more particular taste experiences at different levels, and the functional and nutritional demands of products are more segmented.

The concept of unpasteurized draft beer is not uncommon in China. Compared with pasteurized beer, draft beer is not sterilized at high temperature, and generally removes the remaining yeast and impurities in beer by diatomaceous earth filtration.

The flavour and freshness of draft beer are higher than that of pasteurize beer, and the bubbles are more abundant, and it often produces a stronger sense of tartness when drinking it from a can.

Pepsi’s raw cola is based on the treatment of draft beer, using a non-heating physical sterilization method different from traditional cola sterilization, preserving the aroma of spices in cola as much as possible and reducing the decomposition of carbon dioxide in cola.

Therefore, compared to ordinary Coke, PepsiCo’s bubble experience is more powerful, more exciting, and the flavour more refreshing. After being chilled, raw cola produces a stronger sense of raw and dry mouthfeel (see the illustration above).

This concept has also migrated to other types of beverage. In June this year, Manner launched the Aranya Theatre Festival Limited Draft Beer Latte, which pairs the aroma of malt beer with rich nutty coffee, borrowing the concept of ‘draft beer’ to bring consumers a novel coffee experience.

Manner Coffee’s Draf Beer Latte

In freshly ground coffee and packaged coffee, coffee beans are roasted and ground for a stronger coffee flavour and a higher caffeine content. However, with the development of coffee categories and changes in consumer demand, consumers’ demand for coffee is not limited to supplementing energy through caffeine, for example, people who are caffeine intolerant want to get a low-caffeine drinking experience.

In May this year, Starbucks launched a new generation of ‘Starbucks Raw Coffee’ series in China, with four types: Powdered Green Coffee, Powdered Lime Raw Coffee, Magic Purple Raw Coffee, and Mangzi Lime Raw Coffee. All products in this series are light caffeine drinks, extracted from raw Arabica green beans, blended with real juice and dried fruit. The caffeine content of a single cup is about 1/3 of the same cup of Americano.

On June 13, Starbucks China launched four new raw coffee series and then launched a new frost series. Based on the original green coffee series, the product and ice cubes are whipped into a soft frost to bring a summer frost experience.

Two recent Starbucks products

Japanese origin

Tracing the origins of the application of the concept of raw food in these categories, we can see that most of them originated from the Japanese food market, where raw food is an important part of the diet.

The relatively scarce supply of raw materials and the concept of living in accordance with nature have subtly cultivated the dietary preference and food culture of Japanese consumers towards raw food. The Japanese want to maximize the natural and fresh flavour and nutritional value of the ingredients themselves, as evidenced by the traditional Japanese diet of sashimi and raw soy sauce.

Since then, the concept of raw has gradually broadened to include ‘fresh’, ‘natural’ and ‘simple’. It has become a consumer attitude.

Take for example the raw chocolate that spread from Japan to China. Raw chocolate is made by adding fresh cream and other ingredients to melted chocolate, resulting in a silky, delicate product with a soft texture. This referred to as ‘Nama Chocolate’.

‘Nama’ (written with the same character 生) corresponds to the Japanese meaning of ‘fresh’ and ‘pure’, and originally means ‘fresh chocolate’. Because fresh cream (in Japanese: 生乳油 nama gyuyu) is added to the chocolate making process, it was rendered raw chocolate in Chinese.

The raw toast that has recently become hot in China is also a new baking category that has developed rapidly in the Japanese market. The earliest research and development concept for raw toast was to provide the elderly with a soft and chewable toast, and to provide more choices for children with egg allergies. Therefore, the original raw toast recipe did not add eggs but honey. The characteristics of raw toast are soft and dense, easy to bite off and melting in the mouth. The shelf life of this raw toast is only 1-2 days, which is in line with the concept of freshness, simplicity and purity in the concept of ‘raw’, even though there is nothing raw about it.

Peter Peverelli is active in and with China since 1975 and regularly travels to the remotest corners of that vast nation. He is a co-author of a major book introducing the cultural drivers behind China’s economic success. Peter has been involved with the Chinese food and beverage industries since 1985.